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Gold vermeil or solid gold? How to care for each

They can look identical on the first day. Here is what is actually underneath, why it matters after a year of daily wear, and how to look after both.

A wrist wearing a fine gold bracelet resting on white linen

We make every piece in solid recycled gold, but many people come to us with a drawer that also holds vermeil and plated jewellery. All three can look the same in a shop window. The difference shows up over time, and it changes how you should care for them.

What each one is

  • Gold-plated: a very thin layer of gold, often well under one micron, over brass or another base metal. It can wear through in months.
  • Gold vermeil: sterling silver with a thicker gold layer, usually at least 2.5 microns of 10k gold or higher. It lasts much longer than plating, but the layer is still a coating.
  • Solid gold: gold alloy all the way through, such as 14k (58.5% gold) or 18k (75% gold). There is no layer to wear away.

Vermeil is a lovely way to wear gold for a few years. Solid gold is a way to wear it for the rest of your life.

Johan Berg

Caring for gold vermeil

The goal with vermeil is to protect the coating. Take it off before swimming, showering, cleaning or exercising, since chlorine, salt water and sweat all speed up wear. Wipe it gently with a soft, dry cloth, never a polishing cloth with compound, which removes gold along with the dirt. Store each piece in its own anti-tarnish pouch, because the silver underneath can tarnish where the gold thins.

Caring for solid gold

Solid gold is far more forgiving. It does not tarnish in the way silver does, although 14k can lose a little shine as skin oils and soap build up. To clean it at home:

  1. Fill a small bowl with warm water and a few drops of mild washing-up liquid.
  2. Soak the piece for ten to fifteen minutes.
  3. Brush gently with a soft toothbrush, paying attention to the back of settings.
  4. Rinse under warm running water with the plug in.
  5. Dry with a lint-free cloth and leave it to air dry completely.
Arc gold cuff on white stone
Arc, in solid recycled 14k gold. Scratches can be polished out again and again.

Scratches and re-polishing

Every piece of gold worn daily picks up fine scratches. On vermeil, deep scratches can expose the silver and cannot be polished away. On solid gold, a re-polish removes a hair's width of surface and the piece looks new. Every Maré piece includes lifetime re-polishing, so we suggest bringing it back once a year.

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